Catching up half way around the world
The flight to Dubai is delayed, but that didn't matter because of my 4 hour stopover anyway. Same goes for thet flight to Jakarta which also didn't matter because of my stopovver of 8 hours which ended up beeing 4 afterall. It just ment hardly any sleep. So the startof my summer holiday was retty turbulent, but that was it even without the travel. It ment to be almost 5 weeks and ended up beeing 2 1/2, but that is something kept secret. Instead I got to meet so many of my close friends back home which I enjoyed very much.
Finally I got to Lombok which supposed to be Java instead. The reason was mainly Andrew who picked me up and met a year ago in Santa Teresa. Same story with Mike who just flew into Bali. None of this was planned 4 days ago but ended up with a a lot of excitment and the booking of another flight to Lombok. Andrew and his girlfriend rented which will take all three of us around the island for the next two weeks. After dropping of the luggage at this beautiful homestay in the hills of a lovely southern Lombok bay we went surfing instantly. Mawi became our homespot and was a fun working right and a longer peeling left. So the first jetlagged session after 6 month went pretty well. I had a few nice waves and the missing sleep didn't seemed to bother me that much. Of course I was also looking forward to Indonesian food and ordered a mie goreng right away.
After catching up with Mike in Kuta we planned everything together. And there is a lot of planning involved down here because you have to drive quite a bit to every spot and then very often take a boot. Some spots don't work on certain tides and the wind was blowing strong for days which is very uncommeon in dry season. On the third day we all toke a two hour ride to Ekas. Getting there wasn't easy and even if you drive around the whole bay you still need to get a boat. After a lot of steep gravel roads we made it to a very beautiful beach and took a boat to the outside spot. It was one of those things you only see in movies: only you and your mates out on a reef only accesseble by boat surfing a heavy spot with a big swell. The it was usually double overhead and sometimes breaking all over the place so you had to be careful and not sit into deep or the waves might not let you back out into the lineup. An amazing feeling with every one smiling and cheering for each other as long as our arm could paddle.
Now it's day 5 and we all moved into the same homestay in Kuta and looking forward to the upcoming swell and that the wind finally may slow down. We drive every day at least 50 min to one of the only surfspots taht works with that wind and ended up beeing in the water about 4-5 hours today. I went over the falls like 3 times but somehow never touched the reef. The waves were easily about 2-3 meters high, so I guess I was just lucky to not get pushed down.
Finally I got to Lombok which supposed to be Java instead. The reason was mainly Andrew who picked me up and met a year ago in Santa Teresa. Same story with Mike who just flew into Bali. None of this was planned 4 days ago but ended up with a a lot of excitment and the booking of another flight to Lombok. Andrew and his girlfriend rented which will take all three of us around the island for the next two weeks. After dropping of the luggage at this beautiful homestay in the hills of a lovely southern Lombok bay we went surfing instantly. Mawi became our homespot and was a fun working right and a longer peeling left. So the first jetlagged session after 6 month went pretty well. I had a few nice waves and the missing sleep didn't seemed to bother me that much. Of course I was also looking forward to Indonesian food and ordered a mie goreng right away.
After catching up with Mike in Kuta we planned everything together. And there is a lot of planning involved down here because you have to drive quite a bit to every spot and then very often take a boot. Some spots don't work on certain tides and the wind was blowing strong for days which is very uncommeon in dry season. On the third day we all toke a two hour ride to Ekas. Getting there wasn't easy and even if you drive around the whole bay you still need to get a boat. After a lot of steep gravel roads we made it to a very beautiful beach and took a boat to the outside spot. It was one of those things you only see in movies: only you and your mates out on a reef only accesseble by boat surfing a heavy spot with a big swell. The it was usually double overhead and sometimes breaking all over the place so you had to be careful and not sit into deep or the waves might not let you back out into the lineup. An amazing feeling with every one smiling and cheering for each other as long as our arm could paddle.
Now it's day 5 and we all moved into the same homestay in Kuta and looking forward to the upcoming swell and that the wind finally may slow down. We drive every day at least 50 min to one of the only surfspots taht works with that wind and ended up beeing in the water about 4-5 hours today. I went over the falls like 3 times but somehow never touched the reef. The waves were easily about 2-3 meters high, so I guess I was just lucky to not get pushed down.
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