relax to the max

So going to the DonJons Hostel was the best idea I had. The dorm room has A/C, which I never used so far and the vibe is exactly like the motto: relax to the max. Hammocks everywhere, 2 huge treehouses in the back with a Yoga platform and cute little chalets, always good music and very friendly staff. Jon is basically chilling the whole day, surfs occasionally or smokes weed while having a beer in his hand. Most of the longterm travellers, who basically live in Santa Teresa by now, come and go several times a day and Jon is also well known within the best surfers in town who hang out very often. Everybody knows each other and nobody seems to be unwanted.

sunset in ST

our Hostel and the Top of the Treehouse

Don Jons birthday BBQ

There was really no time where I was regretting my decision. Even when we had snorers, creeps or annoyingly chatty people in the house, there was always enough cool folks to hang out with and go surfing. Well, I consider myself the most dedicated when it comes to get up early for a session with sunrise and empty line-ups. There was a time when I got up at 5.15 to be in the water at 5.30, every other time I was paddling by 6 am. The swell got a lot bigger and a few max-out sets were coming through that looked a bit scary and would be dangerous getting them on the head. So we went to other spots although there are not many. We took a guide and got up at 4 am to drive to Cabouya around the National Park to find ourselves not being the first in the water at 5.30 at an awesome peeling pointbreak called Lajas. Unfortunately it is more of a longboard wave, very soft and shifty, but as soon as the tide dropped we caught some nice peeling righthanders although we paddled already for about two hours. It was worth the $60 we had to pay the driver to get us there. Hübi and I were happy although it could have been bigger and steeper. But the most beautiful thing was that we witnessed the sunrise above the mountain ridge of San Jose and a quite big thunderstorm south of us. The light and the mood was breathtaking. Especially the way the green of the rainforest seemed to glow as soon as the sun touched it while the water remained dark blue as a contrast.

Lajas in Cabuya at sunrise

hang loose time

It was because of that wonderful morning that I pulled the leash around the nose of my board at around 2 pm and wore it like a backpack while riding for 25 min to another lefthand pointbreak called Mar Azul in Mal Pais close to the Nationalpark. The road in and around Santa Teresa is a mess. It is either dusty like in a sandstorm or wet and slippery like a mudslide. We had 3 separate roadworks that caused a lot of slow flowing traffic and now imagine me with my surfboard sideways around my neck inbetween all those annoyed drivers. When I finally got to the break there was nobody out, the rip was horrible, but the waves were magnificent. Once you managed to stay in the same place and the right wave came, it was a steep open face with a lot of room to work with. Exhausted, tired and happy have been cooking my well earned dinner at the hostel with shot of Cola. Haha.

After seeing so many beautiful sunsets and having a few surfs at the same time my last night was rather unexciting. I met Hübi and said goodbye, packed all my stuff and went to bed pretty early. For the first time I decided to do not sleep at the airport but rather spend a night in Alajuela and have a decent sleep and a shower before checking in. The town is quite nice and there was a lot going on in the late afternoon, although is seems to be a bit rough and there was really not much to shop for a tourist. But instead of surfing I took a few very ling walks through the city center and enjoyed moderate temperatures at an altitude of more than 1100m.

sunrise morning session in ST

hanging out with friends

tasty cakes in Alajuela

Well the time just ran away, I met so many people I like to keep in touch with that it is hard to name them all and sum it all up in just a few words. The surf all together has been good. I did not surf that frequently in Australia and probably would not, if it have not been just few weeks of holiday. I had only 3 days off surfing and wen in the water 2-3 times on a good day. My chronically tendinitis infected elbow never really bothered me and a few little sunburns and mosquito bites are worth the scratching. I had hip high to double overhead waves, almost made a few barrels and pulled back on a lot of maybe ones that looked more like a guillotine close-out. Well we never know, but I am okay with it. With everything. Even with the holiday ending. It had to end at one point and I used every minute of it for getting wet and salty. See you next time Centro Americo, but this time Nicaragua.