Taiwan
My visa was running out and I was actually looking forward to Taiwan. A bit colder, a different culture, different food and apparently quite wealthy and English speaking. As soon as I got there one thing was not the case: English speaking. Everything was Chinese. Well some writings are in both languages, but harldy anyone spoke English. And that after a long bus ride, three flights, one night at the airport and another 5 1/2 hours in a bus to reach Taitung and later Dulan on the east coast of Taiwan.
I was exhausted. But at least a horrifying taifun hit Japan and sent waves 8-12 ft to the coast. Needless to say it was way too big for all the spots. And too windy too. I surfed a longboard packed sheltered spot for a few days. But I didn't feel welcoming in general. It was nobodys fault, but it was the public holiday of the year. Everything was fully booked and I ended up beeing in a shitty hostel which was overbooked by 4 beds or so. Most food was in Chinese and I struggled to find some vegi food. The surf was okay at least. Until the leftovers of the Taifun hit the coast with 40 up to 55 gusty km/h winds. I decided to go south to Kenting National Park. Only 145 km, but a 4 1/2 hour drive away it could be sunny and protected.
I booked into a capsule hostel, my first ever. Which was nice considering it waw as much as a dorm room but you have your own noise cancelled space and personal TV. Free laundry, drinks, cookies and instsnt noodles as well. Haha. Not that I need that, but I'll take it. Kenting was very touristic, similar to Thailand but without the bars and drunken people. But a fery long street market and many touristic activities. Totally different to the north. It was nice to try all different but usually greasy and deep fried food. So I even went for pizza and McD in between to get something ...believe it or not... more healthy food.
My scooter was making noises all tbe way down and it was nothing serious after a long non verbal and mostly google translated conversation with the non English speaking machanic. I gave him two beer and moved on. The surf was still messy and blown out and driving up the coast again flat out dangerous with the board on a scooter in those gusty winds. Somehow in between we got a small knee to hip high swell down south at Nanwan. But boards are €16 for 4 hours or 27 for 8 hours. So absolutely ridiculous. Luckily I was drinking at a nice bar with some very chilled old school hiphop music out of frustration of beeing stuck and not surfing at the same time. Just then I spotted an old longboard in the corner and the bartender had no problem giving it to me for free. I had some of the best waves of my whole trip in those very clean, warm, small offshore waves with i.e. Nas beats blowing up the lineup. Every day I was hanging out at the bar, fixing their board as a thx, surfing as often as I can a longboard and was quite happy.
Eight days had passed and it got flat and I had to drop the scooter up the coast anyway despite the fact they did not have any passport, deposit or even my real name. But I waited for a less windy time and extended daily at the hostel. Finally I left at 6 am with the scooter breaking down 500m out. No battery. So pushed it back, waited tired until 8 am for the reception to call a mechanic to pick it up at 10.30 and sat out of the garage until 2 pm just to finally leave and arrived after a 3 1/2 hour drive back in dulan - tired, exhausted and with the fear of not getting my money back from the rental shop. Oh and did I mentioned that I accidently did another stupid thing? The surprising surf got me so excited that I went in and when I wanted to start the scooter the key was gone... Fishing. So I had to get a keymaker coming to make a new one so I could use my scooter again. Another €30 gone.
Everything worked out and the next days had some nice surfing and a cool hostel vibe. Sure some guys snored of cause and causing me nights with a lack of sleep. But just when I thought the ups and downs on that trip were over some jellyfish bit me on both legs and arms heavily. It was burning for a day and then itching ever since causing me wake up several time to take a cool shower at night to keep the skin smooth and calm.
So bottom line. It's been a ride, Taiwan, but probably never another reunion. The best surf season is also the most windy. It's always cloudy up the coast and I struggle to get food where I know what I am eating. But the last few sessions also reminded me of how beautiful those dark green high mountains right behind us look with the mist coming our of it and still be in boardshort warm water. Just stunning.
I was exhausted. But at least a horrifying taifun hit Japan and sent waves 8-12 ft to the coast. Needless to say it was way too big for all the spots. And too windy too. I surfed a longboard packed sheltered spot for a few days. But I didn't feel welcoming in general. It was nobodys fault, but it was the public holiday of the year. Everything was fully booked and I ended up beeing in a shitty hostel which was overbooked by 4 beds or so. Most food was in Chinese and I struggled to find some vegi food. The surf was okay at least. Until the leftovers of the Taifun hit the coast with 40 up to 55 gusty km/h winds. I decided to go south to Kenting National Park. Only 145 km, but a 4 1/2 hour drive away it could be sunny and protected.
I booked into a capsule hostel, my first ever. Which was nice considering it waw as much as a dorm room but you have your own noise cancelled space and personal TV. Free laundry, drinks, cookies and instsnt noodles as well. Haha. Not that I need that, but I'll take it. Kenting was very touristic, similar to Thailand but without the bars and drunken people. But a fery long street market and many touristic activities. Totally different to the north. It was nice to try all different but usually greasy and deep fried food. So I even went for pizza and McD in between to get something ...believe it or not... more healthy food.
My scooter was making noises all tbe way down and it was nothing serious after a long non verbal and mostly google translated conversation with the non English speaking machanic. I gave him two beer and moved on. The surf was still messy and blown out and driving up the coast again flat out dangerous with the board on a scooter in those gusty winds. Somehow in between we got a small knee to hip high swell down south at Nanwan. But boards are €16 for 4 hours or 27 for 8 hours. So absolutely ridiculous. Luckily I was drinking at a nice bar with some very chilled old school hiphop music out of frustration of beeing stuck and not surfing at the same time. Just then I spotted an old longboard in the corner and the bartender had no problem giving it to me for free. I had some of the best waves of my whole trip in those very clean, warm, small offshore waves with i.e. Nas beats blowing up the lineup. Every day I was hanging out at the bar, fixing their board as a thx, surfing as often as I can a longboard and was quite happy.
Eight days had passed and it got flat and I had to drop the scooter up the coast anyway despite the fact they did not have any passport, deposit or even my real name. But I waited for a less windy time and extended daily at the hostel. Finally I left at 6 am with the scooter breaking down 500m out. No battery. So pushed it back, waited tired until 8 am for the reception to call a mechanic to pick it up at 10.30 and sat out of the garage until 2 pm just to finally leave and arrived after a 3 1/2 hour drive back in dulan - tired, exhausted and with the fear of not getting my money back from the rental shop. Oh and did I mentioned that I accidently did another stupid thing? The surprising surf got me so excited that I went in and when I wanted to start the scooter the key was gone... Fishing. So I had to get a keymaker coming to make a new one so I could use my scooter again. Another €30 gone.
Everything worked out and the next days had some nice surfing and a cool hostel vibe. Sure some guys snored of cause and causing me nights with a lack of sleep. But just when I thought the ups and downs on that trip were over some jellyfish bit me on both legs and arms heavily. It was burning for a day and then itching ever since causing me wake up several time to take a cool shower at night to keep the skin smooth and calm.
So bottom line. It's been a ride, Taiwan, but probably never another reunion. The best surf season is also the most windy. It's always cloudy up the coast and I struggle to get food where I know what I am eating. But the last few sessions also reminded me of how beautiful those dark green high mountains right behind us look with the mist coming our of it and still be in boardshort warm water. Just stunning.
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