rain rain rain

Time doesnt fly by as expected. Sometimes it stands still. I often dont know what date or day we have. Only a look in the forecast tells me, its wednesday - 9 days to go. I only live by the sun and the tides. If there is going to be the right swell at the right tide for an early morning session, I set the alarm to 6.30. Otherwise I just sleep in and check the waves whenever I get up. Having Breakfast before a session is up to the conditions, but there is only good and crappy conditions. So having breakfast before the morning session happens only when I am really surfed out from the day before or its windy or small or everything is coming together. The girls however always need to get going in the morning and start the days slowly with reading, breakfast and occaissionalley surfing. Ok, I am often tired and morning-grumpy but as soon as there is a chance for getting wet, nothing else matters. 

 

The weather is not important. Just yesterday at 2 pm me and Hübi went to La Lora, the next good spot in misty conditions and we were sure it was about to rain later. Doesnt matter. It was windy, choppy and the waves came in like in the North Sea. Anyway we had fun, although it was short and mostly close out. But calling each other in crappy waves and laugh after a wipeout about each other became quite a habit and a battle. We were screaming for each other, if there was a good wave or the other gets pounded in the sucky face of the wave. What I heard the most was ¨ Ollllli, gleich gibts auf die Mütze¨ when a big set is approaching. And he often just heard me laughing ¨nosedive oder wampenklatscher?!¨ according to his habit of paddling into close-out-waves. Nobody in the line-up really had fun, but us. The weather gets really bad, it started to rain and we saw it coming for 20 min from the beach south of ours. It was a classic monsun rain. The Raindrops were thick and heavy and when they met the water surface you had 10 cm of misty water-oxygen-mix. It got even heavier and we barely saw the waves roling in through the rain. At least the wind stopped. We has so much fun and I like surfing in the rain. It is totally chaos and loud, but in a strange way calm and peaceful. Consistantly the rain fell on our heads and we catched ourselfes looking in the grey and wet sky grining and not paying attention to the waves which were crap anyway.

 

 

My board is still in repair and I dont know how long it will take. Fortunately I can take Katrins board while she usually takes the wider one of Hübi. It happened through a wipe-out in quite small but powerrful conditions. I cant remember what happened, but when i touched the bottom of my board the sealing has been cracked. I came right back in. It wasnt broken, just the outside was cracked open and water came into the board. Hope it is not too bad. Hübis board looked different last year, but he came back with two while left with one. After one day of rain the sun came back out and is boiling everybody. We seek shade and chill in the hangmat, as usually.

When the day reaches 4 pm, I grab my board or during the lack of swell in the last days Isas Malibu and go to the beach, because there are only two hours of daylight left and the wind is going to drop usually. So when it is dark and I saw again an amazing sunset I grab some food and the bed starts to call me in about 9-10 pm. There is actually nothing else to do, because it is low season and no parties, no dancing, no going out. Besides it is too dangerous at night and there is no light anywhere.