tendinitis, close-outs and bombs
It has been almost 3 weeks by now and we always had swell. The only thing stopping me from catching a lot of waves were the really painful tendinitis in my left ellbow. I had to think about every wave twice wether or not it will peel down the line or is closing out. Due to the heavy rain we had a really gnarly current which i was not able to paddle against and was sitting in the wrong spot most of the times. The water and the air is refreshing cool for a place which average temperature is 31º.
For the last 5-6 days we had 4-6 ft and most of them were close-outs. But Hübi and I tried to go surfing at least once a day, sometimes we had to go running and exercise in other ways, because we had a lay day. But there was one day when we seemed to sit in the right spot for the most of the times and had some amazing bombs. It was one of those days where you start paddling and your adrenaline rises, your heart starts beating faster and faster, your eyes are big and your mouth is wide open to breath. You think about a lot of things. Doing everything right, dont stop paddling, dont slip, dont look down in the pit, look down the line, watch the lip at the same time, antizipating whether or not it is a close-out and you dont see the line-up again for the next minutes. The wave rises and the most i was thinking about was actually not thinking about what could happen too much. I paddled hard. Dont grab the rail, put your feet in the right position, dont stand up staight so fast. The waves pushes me and i was racing down the face for 2-2,5 m. But it is not done yet,i need to climb back up that mountain to maintain speed and not get swallowed like a smarties by a child. My eyes are big and my mouth is wide open,no time to think no space for mistakes. Woohooo was Hübi yelling from the back waiting for the next bomb. Bottom turn into the lip and back down the line - thats it, i made the difficult part. Yeah. Stoked. Done. Busted. I was doing some more turns and was paddling back out with a grining face not worriing about getting some on my head. It didnt matter. Nothing mattered. This was just the beginning and i was happy to jot thought about the consequences and were just going. Hübi was smiling and so was i. The only thing that made us stop was the twilight and my arm hurting too bad from all the paddle strokes.
While the waves were big it kept the most of the tourists out of the water, only me, Hübi and a few keen locals went surfing. The waves were closing out most of the time and they were so big that it seemed to brake bones if you are in the wrong spot paddling out. It wasnt worth for tbe few waves peeling.
The girls however went shopping one day and came back with a sunburn and a shining blue bikini for Isa. The missed some rebuilding waves on the inside. But when they made it out the tide was changing and the sandflies were eating them raw. Isa just said: I thought I left those bloody bitching miserable filthy beast back in New Zealand?! But they are doing fine. The take-offs are looking really good and they seemed to be comfortable with their equipment. Butthe big swell denies the chance to surf green waves - unbroken territory. But Isa aleady has a nice board. One day the waves werent that big and they had not enough power for most of the shortboarders, so i took Isas board which gave me a scar back in NZ next to my nose and i rode about 20 waves or so. It was so much fun paddling for whatever comes along. Frank and Andre know what i mean when we remember Amado beach in Portugal back in November.
Sometimes there is a strange vibe in the water. A lot of guys dont really know what they are doing and sit in your way without knowing or dropping in other surfers. Only the locals seemed to be relaxed and always friendly, who remind me of the maoris back in NZ.
Thats it, sorry for not having pictures, but the internet denies them somehow. But they will be uploaded whenever possible.
For the last 5-6 days we had 4-6 ft and most of them were close-outs. But Hübi and I tried to go surfing at least once a day, sometimes we had to go running and exercise in other ways, because we had a lay day. But there was one day when we seemed to sit in the right spot for the most of the times and had some amazing bombs. It was one of those days where you start paddling and your adrenaline rises, your heart starts beating faster and faster, your eyes are big and your mouth is wide open to breath. You think about a lot of things. Doing everything right, dont stop paddling, dont slip, dont look down in the pit, look down the line, watch the lip at the same time, antizipating whether or not it is a close-out and you dont see the line-up again for the next minutes. The wave rises and the most i was thinking about was actually not thinking about what could happen too much. I paddled hard. Dont grab the rail, put your feet in the right position, dont stand up staight so fast. The waves pushes me and i was racing down the face for 2-2,5 m. But it is not done yet,i need to climb back up that mountain to maintain speed and not get swallowed like a smarties by a child. My eyes are big and my mouth is wide open,no time to think no space for mistakes. Woohooo was Hübi yelling from the back waiting for the next bomb. Bottom turn into the lip and back down the line - thats it, i made the difficult part. Yeah. Stoked. Done. Busted. I was doing some more turns and was paddling back out with a grining face not worriing about getting some on my head. It didnt matter. Nothing mattered. This was just the beginning and i was happy to jot thought about the consequences and were just going. Hübi was smiling and so was i. The only thing that made us stop was the twilight and my arm hurting too bad from all the paddle strokes.
While the waves were big it kept the most of the tourists out of the water, only me, Hübi and a few keen locals went surfing. The waves were closing out most of the time and they were so big that it seemed to brake bones if you are in the wrong spot paddling out. It wasnt worth for tbe few waves peeling.
The girls however went shopping one day and came back with a sunburn and a shining blue bikini for Isa. The missed some rebuilding waves on the inside. But when they made it out the tide was changing and the sandflies were eating them raw. Isa just said: I thought I left those bloody bitching miserable filthy beast back in New Zealand?! But they are doing fine. The take-offs are looking really good and they seemed to be comfortable with their equipment. Butthe big swell denies the chance to surf green waves - unbroken territory. But Isa aleady has a nice board. One day the waves werent that big and they had not enough power for most of the shortboarders, so i took Isas board which gave me a scar back in NZ next to my nose and i rode about 20 waves or so. It was so much fun paddling for whatever comes along. Frank and Andre know what i mean when we remember Amado beach in Portugal back in November.
Sometimes there is a strange vibe in the water. A lot of guys dont really know what they are doing and sit in your way without knowing or dropping in other surfers. Only the locals seemed to be relaxed and always friendly, who remind me of the maoris back in NZ.
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